McMillan Spires in winter. Photo: Othello Phillip Dickert Collection, The Mountaineers Archives.
McMillan Spires in winter. Photo: Othello Phillip Dickert Collection, The Mountaineers Archives.
  Index of Short Reports  
  Also see NWMJ Inbox - New routes gathered since Issue 7  

  Issue 1, 2004
Mt Buckner, North Face Couloir, Ski Descent
Summit Chief Mtn, North Face, New Route
Whitehorse Mtn, Wellman/Sill Basin, New Route
Dragontail Peak, NE Couloir, Ski Descent
Mt Maude, NE Couloir, Ski Descent
Dragontail Peak, Serpentine Arete, Winter Ascent
Icicle Ridge Area, Ski Descents
Mt Buckner, North Face, Winter Ascent
The Chopping Block, Winter Ascent
Winter 2004 Mazama, New Ice Climbs
Ice Climbing near Washington Pass, Fall 2003
Mt Shuksan, Satan’s Sidewalk, New Route
Exfoliation Dome, Voodoo Wall, New Route
Vasiliki Ridge, “Carlo Rossi Memorial Tower,” New Route
Bonanza Peak, Three-Summit Traverse
Mt Formidable, Complete East Ridge, New Route
Southern Picket Range, Complete Enchainment
Paisano Pinnacle, New Route
Oval Peak, NE Couloir, New Route
Witch Doctor Wall, “Solaris,” New Route
Exfoliation Dome, “Jacob’s Ladder,” New Route
“Poster Peak,” ENE Buttresses, New Routes
Mt Baker, High-Level Orbit on Skis
Mineral Mtn High Route on Skis
Goat Wall, “Sisyphus,” New Route
Goat Wall, Other Developments
Vasiliki Ridge, Ares Tower, New Route
Pyramid Peak, NE Face, New Route
Kangaroo Ridge, Steep Ski Descents
Inspiration Peak, Winter Ascent
Mt Buckner, Winter Ascent
Little Big Chief Mtn, Falcon Route, New Route
“Whine Spire,” Gato Negro, New Route
Gilbert Mtn, East Ridge of North Peak, New Route
Mt Garfield West Peak, South Face, New Route
North Gardner Mtn, NE Couloir, Ski Descent
  Issue 2, 2005
Monte Cristo Ski Circuit, Pride Glacier Ski Descent
Mount Hardy, NE Couloirs, Ski Descents
Summit Chief Mtn, N Face “Alpine Chicken,” New Route
Mt Shuksan, Price Glacier, NE Chute, Ski Descent
La Petit Cheval, “Spontaneity Arête,” New Route
Magic Mountain, NE Couloir, Ski Descent
Mount Torment, NW Face, Ski Descent
Mount Adams, Lyman Glacier (south), Ski Descent
Cutthroat Peak, West Face “CSP,” New Route
Mount Rainier, Winthrop Glacier Headwall, Ski Descent
Dragontail Peak, “Der Diehedral,” New Route
Degenhardt Glacier and Terror-Rake Col, Ski Descents
Sherman Peak, NE Face, Ski Descent
Kookipi Creek area, “Brambles, Buttress, Sky,” New Route
Burgundy Spire, East Face, “Action Potential,” New Route
Burgundy Spire, NE Face, “Ultramega OK,” New Route
Old Desolate, South Face, “Hang Dog Ally,” New Route
Amphitheatre Mountain, “Pilgrimage to Mecca,” New Route
Sawtooth Ridge (Olympics), Complete Traverse
Katsuk Peak, North Rib, New Route
“Tang Tower,” Sultan River area, New Routes
Mount Maude, West Couloir, Winter Ascent
Mt Blum, NW shoulder, Ski Descent
White Chuck Mountain, NE Ridge, Winter Ascent
Mount Snoqualmie, “Pineapple Express,” New Route
Hagan Mountain, Mount Blum NE glacier, Winter Ascents
Mt Buckner, N Face, “Copa Cabana Variation,” New Route
Mount Stuart, Full North Ridge, Winter Ascent
Mount Triumph, NE Ridge, Winter Ascent
White Chuck Mountain, East Face Couloir, Winter Ascent
Chiwawa Mountain, NW Face, “Intravenous,” New Route
Kangaroo Temple, NW Face, Winter Ascent
Davis Peak, NE Face Couloir, Winter Ascent
Mount Thompson, West Ridge, Winter Ascent
Welch Peak, NE Face, New Route
Fallacy Peak, West Ridge, Probable New Route
Foley Peak, NE Ridge, Winter Ascent
Hurry-Up Peak, “Plan B” Couloir, New Route and Ski Descent
Silver Star Mountain, West Face, Central Couloir, New Route
“Poster Peak” or “Pica Peak” Clarification
  Issue 3, 2006
Silver Tooth, SW Buttress, “The Crown,” New Route
Jack Mountain, NE Glacier, Ski Descent
Mount Goode, East Face, Ski Descent
Mount Arriva, East Peak, North Couloir, New Route
Sinister Peak, North Face, Ski Descent
Mt Maude, West Couloir, Ski Descent
Robinson Mountain, North Couloir, Ski Descent
Bonanza Peak, NW Buttress, Ski Descent
Silver Horn, SE Face, “The Chalice,” New Route
“Green Creek Wall,” “Green Creek Arête,” New Route
Boola Boola Buttress, “Thank You Baby Jesus,” New Route
Mount Rainier, Central Mowich Face, Ski Descent
“Mythical Bellingham Big Wall,” New Route
Big Four Mountain, N Tower, Direct N Face, New Route
Aasgard Pass, “Acid Baby,” New Route
Tupshin Peak, East Ridge, New Route
Early Morning Spire, SW Buttress, New Route
Toppling Tower, North Face, New Route
Dragontail Peak, “20-Sided Dihedral,” New Route
Silver Star Traverse, New Route
Johannesburg Mountain, “CK Route,” New Route
“The Stovepipe” (Green Glacier area), New Route
Skookum Peak, East Face, New Route
Castle Peak, NW Buttress, “Sod On Me,” New Route
Green Creek Wall, “Evil Twin Arête,” New Route
Cadet Peak, West Couloir, Ski Descent
Chair Peak, North Face, Ski Descent
Spider Mountain, North Face (right), Ski Descent
Argonaut Peak, NE Couloir, Ski Descent
Lake 22 Headwall, NW Chutes, New Route
Mount Index, West Face, “Murphy’s Law,” New Route
Slippery Slab Tower, NE Face, Winter Ascent
Whitehorse Mountain, East Face, Winter Ascent
Big Four Mountain, Dry Creek Route, Ski Descent
Abiel Peak, North Face, “Blind Date,” New Route
Guye Peak, West Face, Ski Descent
Mount Formidable, NW Face, Ski Descent
Abiel Peak, “North Face Direct,” New Route
Mount Baring, NE Couloir, Ski Descent
Mount Formidable, Formidable Glacier, Ski Descent
Abiel Peak, North Face, “It’s All-Der,” New Route
Other Climbs of interest
  Issue 4, 2007
Eagle Peak, NE Face, “Solitary Confinement,” New Route
Mt Buckhorn, NE Peak, South Ridge, SW Gully, New Routes
Dragontail Peak, Triple Couloir, Ski Descent
Mount Logan, Banded Glacier, Ski Descent
Colfax Peak, South Face, Ski Descent
Mount Stuart, Ice Cliff Glacier, Ski Descent
Twin Sisters Range, Ski Traverse
Mount Rainier, Kautz Headwall, Ski Descent
Mount Adams, Lava Ridge, Ski Descent
Gunsight South Peak, South Ridge, New Route
Sherpa Balanced Rock, Free Ascent
D’artanian Spire, South Face, New Route
Pernod Spire, Direct West Face, New Route
Orange Tower, SE Face, New Routes
McClellan Peak, “Obscurely Enchanting Fur,” New Route
Pernod Spire, Indirect West Face, New Variation
Mount Buckner, Complete SE Ridge, New Route
Mount Stuart, NE Face, New Variation
Spectre Peak, SW Buttress, “Haunted Wall,” New Route
Boola Boola Buttress, “Black Velvet,” New Route
Liberty Bell, NW Corner, New Route
Anonymity Towers, First Ascents
Bonanza Peak, NW Ridge, New Route
Wedge Mountain, SE Buttress, New Route
The Blob (The Rake), South Buttress, “Plan 9,” New Route
Mount Fury, West Peak, SW (“Mongo”) Ridge, New Route
Crystal Lake Wall, North Face, “Waste of Life,” New Route
Dragontail Peak, NW Face, “Dragonscar,” New Route
South Early Winter Spire, “Mojo Rising,” New Route
Le Petit Cheval, NW Face, “Paul Revere,” New Route
West McMillan Spire, West Ridge, Ski Descent
Hall Peak, NW Face, New Route
Abiel Peak, North Face, “Spindrift Daze,” New Route
Snow Creek Wall, “A Swing and a Prayer,” New Route
Mount Kent, North Face, New Route
Three Fingers, NE Face, New Route
Oval Peak, Winter Ascent
Other Climbs of Interest
  Issue 5, 2008
Hinkhouse Peak, NW Ridge, Previously Unreported Route
Lost Marbles Couloir, Ski Descent
Mount Deception, NE Chute, Ski Descent
Mount Mystery, E/NE Face, Ski Descent
Mount Stuart, Lara Kellogg Memorial Route, New Variation
Mount Rainier, Fuhrer Thumb, Ski Descent
Inner Constance, NE Face, Ski Descent
Snowfield Peak, Summit Ski Descent
Mount Rainier, Sunset Ridge, Ski Descent
Dragon Teeth, West Face Buttress, New Route
Squire Creek, Roan Wall and Salish Peaks, New Routes
The Triad, NW (“Kumquat”) Couloir, Ski Descent
Varden Creek Spire, North Arete, New Route
Big Kangaroo, Kearney-Thomas South Face, Free Ascent
Abernathy Peak, NE Face, Ski Descent
Mount Adams, NW Face of West Ridge, Ski Descent
Mount Fernow, North Face, Ski Descent
Gunsight Peaks Traverse, “Gunrunner”
Gunsight North Peak, West Face, Free Ascent
The Snout, “Deviated Septum,” New Route
Mount Shuksan, NW “Arayete,” New Route
Cutthroat Wall, “The Perfect Crime,” New Route
The Snout, “Smelling Salts,” New Route
Cutthroat Wall, “Easy Getaway,” New Route
Mount Triumph, SW Ridge, New Route
Mount Goode, East (“Megalodon”) Ridge, New Route
Amphitheatre Mtn, “Unauthorized Squirrel,” New Route
Molar Tooth, West Face, New Route
Mount Higgins, SE Slab, Ski Descent
Mt Shuksan, North Face, NW Couloir Variation, Ski Descent
Bandit Peak, NW Couloir, “Black Hole,” Ski Descent
Mount Shuksan, Curtis Glacier, Ski Descent
  Issue 6, 2009
Mount Shuksan, SW Face, Ski Descent
Tower Mountain, NE Couloir, Ski Descent
Mesahchie Peak, Mesahchie Icefall Couloir, Ski Descent
Colchuck Peak, NE Couloir, Complete Ski Descent
Sundial Peak, ESE Face, Ski Descent
Mt Adams, High-level Orbit on Skis
Jack Mountain, South Face, Ski Descent
Morning Star Peak, North Face, Ski Descent
Del Campo Peak, North and East Faces, Ski Descents
Fortress Mountain, SW Face, Ski Descent
Courtney Peak, North Face, New Route
Natal Peak, NNE Ridge, New Route
Phantom Peak, SE Face, Ski Descent
Mount Olympus, N Face and N Couloir, Ski Descent
Castle Peak, North Face, New Route
West Tillie’s Tower, North ArÍte, New Route
South Early Winter Spire, “Southern Man,” New Route
Colchuck Balanced Rock, “The Tempest,” New Route
Silver Horn, “Playin’ Not Sprayin’,” New Route
Distal Phalanx, North ArÍte, New Route
East McMillan Spire, North Buttress, New Route
Sloan Peak, SE Ridge/Corner, New Variation
Twin Spires (Mox Peaks), ESE Peak, NE Buttress, New Route
Sherpa Peak, SW Face (“Rilikpa”), New Route
Tower Mountain, SE Ridge, New Route
Buck Mountain, North Face, New Route
Dragontail Peak, Backbone Ridge, Winter Ascent
Colonial Peak, NW Face Couloir, Winter Ascent
The Flagpole, Winter Ascent
Mount Snoqualmie, North Face, New Variation
Mount Shuksan, Curtis Glacier, Ski Descent
  Issue 7, 2010
Blockhouse, West Face, New Route
Hurricane Ridge to Mount Constance, Ski Traverse
Glacier Peak, Cool Glacier Headwall, Ski Descent
Mount Cashmere, NE Face, Ski Descent
Columbia Peak, East Face, Ski Descent
Greybeard Peak, East Face, New Route and Ski Descent
Chiwawa Mountain, NW Face of East Peak, Ski Descent
Hozomeen Mountain, N Peak, NE Face, Ski Descent
Mount Spickard, East Face, Ski Descent
Ski descents in the Mount Olympus area
Twin Needles, North Couloir, “Thread of Ice,” New Route
South Nesakwatch Spire, East Buttress, New Route
Mount Stuart, NW Face, “Gorillas in the Mist,” New Route
Repulse Peak, NE Rib, New Route
Dome Peak, SE Face (“Gran Torino”), New Route
Mount Formidable, Complete NE Buttress, New Variation
Dragontail Peak, “Dragons of Eden,” Free Ascent
Mount Challenger, Middle and West Peaks, New Routes
Colchuck Balanced Rock, “The Scoop,” New Route
Buck Mountain, North Ridge, Surprise Second Ascent
Mount Despair, SW Ridge, New Route
Colchuck Balanced Rock, Tempest Wall, Free Ascent
Sloan Peak, SW Face, “Fire on the Mountain,” New Route
The Roost, NE Face, “Fowl Play,” New Route
Washington Pass, “Ellen Pea Route,” New Route
Mount Baker, Roosevelt Glacier Cirque, New Ice Routes
Mount Shuksan, West of the North Face, Ski Descent
Three Fingers, South Peak, Summit Ski Descent
Picket Range, Winter Ski Traverse
Colonial Peak, North Face, “First Date,” New Route
Pyramid Peak, NE Face, New Route
Sperry Peak, NE Face, New Route
Mount Hood, Black Spider, Center Drip, New Route
Mt Shuksan, Hanging Glacier, Ski Descent
Assassin Spire, First Ascent
Mount Maude, SW Couloir, Ski Descent
Mount Hood, Black Spider, Fric-Amos, New Route
Dragontail Peak, TC North Face Variant, Ski Descent
Mt Maude, North Face (left), Ski Descent
Sherpa Peak, NE Face, Ski Descents